Diva disclaimer
First, let’s be clear here. This guide is intended for people who are interested in posing nude. If you’re one of those little “princesses” who refuses to pose nude, let me make something very clear: quit wasting your time. Only exceptionally beautiful models with rare physical traits (read: tall, busty blondes) will ever make money posing with clothes on. For everyone else there is art nudes.
Introduction
The fact that you’re not over 5’8″ and under 110 lbs doesn’t mean you can’t still be beautiful, or photogenic. We all know that women like feeling pretty, and photographers know that very little in this world makes a woman feel as pretty as modeling.
Many young women will experiment with modeling. Some will find that they truly enjoy it, and that they’re even good at it. Eventually, after doing some free (TFP) modeling and building a decent portfolio, they will start getting lots of contacts from photographers asking about rates.
I see a lot of amateur models following trends that may be working against them. Most amateur models ask for high hourly rates — often unreasonably high. While it is definitely important to feel that you are being properly compensated when you take off your clothes for a photographer, it’s also important not to put yourself into the same category with strippers and prostitutes. But hey, it’s your life, do what you want. (Maybe you like that!)
Hourly rates are bad
The standard expectation in this industry is that the model should be paid her hourly rate from the moment she arrives until the moment she is ready to leave. If you spend an hour shooting portraits and an hour shooting casual, and then an hour shooting nudes, you will be expected to pay the nude rate for three hours. [Photogs, if you've been trying to pro-rate it, that might explain why your models don't call you back.]
So if it’s cold out, that time you need to warm up is costing the photographer. Your time putting on makeup is costing the photographer. Your restroom breaks, your smoke breaks, your phone calls to your boyfriend… all costing him. And he knows this. This is why models who quote a high hourly rate get treated like meat puppets — no breaks, no time to warm up, no conversation, just hurry up and shoot. The rush that this imposes not only leads to hurried, lower-quality shoots, but also leads to shorter shoots. In other words, you end up making less money.
Flat rates are better
Modeling is supposed to be providing a photographer with a service that he can’t provide for himself. You’re there to accomplish a task. Why not offer to accomplish that task within a specified amount of time for a specific amount of money. It’s far more photographer-friendly.
When the photographer knows how much he’s spending and he’s not worried about that amount changing, he’ll relax. The shoot will be slower and more fun. He’ll give you time to warm up, maybe offer you something to eat or drink, and he’ll let you take breaks whenever you need them.
Sometimes the shoot will end before you’ve used your whole block of time — effecting a dramatic increase in your hourly rate! Other times, if you’re not done shooting when the time is reached, you can offer to stay a few more minutes to finish (if it’s close) or negotiate an additional rate to stay longer.
My advice
If you’re an amateur model and you’re just getting started with the idea of getting paid, here’s my advice. Ignore all of those divas who say they want $75/hr., because those girls are only getting work an hour at a time — and only from chumps with no talent, who think the camera gives them a more personal nude experience than the strip club. (Well, that is, unless they’re 5’11″ and built like Carmen Electra!)
You might start out by asking for $100 for a 2-3 hour shoot. Or you could ask for $150, for a 3-4 hour shoot. In these examples, you’re locking in a dollar amount and also allowing yourself a little wiggle room to get out early if necessary. And as an added benefit, you have the ability to make other plans for your day after the shoot is over.
